Source of the Swine?

We were caught in the middle of two of these pig trucks on the way back form Guanajuato... The stench was unbearable. We made the mistake of stopping at Subway (precious gem in the rough) and having to endure it not twice but four times as a direct result. Luckily my 6 inch turkey on wheat stayed down. heeee.

Mummy Museum

The mummy museum in Guanajuato was pretty stellar. We kept asking our Mexican friends just how the mummies had become mummies and after about the 4th time we asked without adequate response, we decided to take matters into our own hands. The museum itself doesn't do a very thorough job of explaining the mummies existence but the fact that they are there on display does quite enough for the visit to be worthwhile. Here's what I gathered post-visit...

"A combination of the soil conditions and a dry climate of the mountainous area caused the bodies in the local cemetery to dry out naturally before they could decompose. The bodies were placed in tombs, seven rows high; apparently, those in the middle row were more likely to have been naturally mummified. However, only those who failed to pay the grave tax were ever exhumed so information about mummification will always be incomplete."

Learn more about it here.

Muy interesante. Here were a few of my fave shots.

Cervantino!

The Cervantino International festival is held each year in Guanajuato, a small city about 3 hours from DF. The festival takes place for about 3 weeks in October and hosts a range of cultural events. We saw lots of cool artwork and a dance performance on Saturday night. Not as much music as I had been hoping for, but I think we were just in the wrong places at the wrong times. The performance was interesting to say the least. It was a wordless portrayal of themes of suffrage and power featuring about 10 nearly naked people painted white... and eventually gold. Pretty sweet.

Guanajuato is also the birthplace of Diego Rivera. We visited his childhood home and got a really cool take on the development of his artistic style over the years.

I especially enjoyed Guanajuato for its colonial architecture and unique city style. Many of the buildings are built atop tunnels that provide the towns roadways. Reminded me a lot of Cusco, Peru actually. Definitely going back for another visit soon.

Beautiful Views

I got my fair share of buena vistas during this trip. The view from Liz and Brian's Lincoln Park apartment is great and unobstructed.

Even though getting up in the morning to board a plane back to Mexico was somewhat painful, I was welcomed back with this beautiful view of a full moon over Mexico City...

Palmer House

Another highlight of my Chicago visit was the fact that we dined in style in the Palmer House Hotel's penthouse! It was incredible. The decor was so chic and classy and the food was amazing as well. Liz and Brian really got the royal treatment... talk about reaping in the benefits!!! heehee.

The lobby

Penthouse baño

My favorite... the powder room!

So old Hollywood

Still Pinching Myself

Our final days in Playa were sad to say the least, but alas, responsibility calls and we had to say goodbye. The trip was amazing. Unfortunately, the end was sad for more reasons than simply having to go our separate ways. Charlotte was suffering from jellyfish stings all over her upper thighs which had grown into massive welts and Kelly was developing a severe sinus infection and ear ache from the water pressure of the scuba adventure. I, on the other hand, made out like a bandit and then some. When I got to the Cancun airport, they told me that they had overbooked the flight to Mexico City so I would have to wait for a seat assignment. As those with seats boarded, I realized that I was only 1 of 3 people without a seat. This could get ugly. So I came and left the front desk a few times to make sure they still remembered the seatless gringa. As I was settling back into my book for the 3rd time, the guy across me asks if I'm from Brazil? No, porque? Tus zapatos. O, claro! My Havianas have a Brazilian flag on them, pero no soy de Brazil. Y tu? Si, de Brazil. So I have a handsome Brazilian man on my hands. We chit chat for a bit, then his seat gets called (blasted seat holders!) and he wishes me well and hopes I get on the flight. I finally do, and a few minutes after the fasten seat belt sign turns off, I get a tap on the shoulder and some Brazilian pearly whites flashing at me. He's traveling with his dad and would I like to switch seats with him so that we can sit together? Porque no? So my new airplane bf and I talk the entire flight and at the end he actually suggests staying in Mexico for another week instead of heading back to Rio right then. Um, en serio? I pondered for a few seconds before I came to my senses and told him it was probably best for him to go back to Brazil...

Currently plotting my trip to Carnival 2010...teehee.

Scuba Steve!

So we camped out at the Blue Parrot every day to sunbathe, tomar cervezas, etc. About mid-way through the trip we met Steve, a dive instructor who works at the Blue Parrot. We shoot the shit for a while and lo and behold, he offers us free scuba lessons! Man, we're good! ha. Claro que DUH, we're going. So we spend one day training in the pool and the next unda da sea. The girls were a little weary at first but I think we all came out scuba winners. I LOVED it and plan on going again soon. It's crazy what a different world is down there! Now that I've gotten the logistics down, I feel like I can enjoy the scenery a little more next time... Payment may be a problem, however... hmmmm... donations anyone?

Training in the pool

Leaving dry land...

The main event! eek!

This Post Dedicated to Kel

The club scene in Playa doesn't compare to Cancun but it's still worth a few nights out on the town. Especially when ladies drink for free all night!! Wooop wooop. Good times. For lessons on how to become the ultimate Playa scenester in one week, contact Keldawg@letsgoout.com.

JUMPING for joy

One of the first activities we did in Playa was going with our newfound friends to a swimming hole type of place in a tucked away jungle-esque part of town known as Jardin del Eden. Beautiful scenery, but bugs galore. We went snorkeling through a few caves and jumped off the rocks to appease Charlotte's sudden urge to go sky diving, which quite simply, none of us can afford. It was a nice mini adrenaline rush. Overall a great jump off (man, I'm cheesy) for the trip minus the ridiculous bug bites that we all left with and I am still nursing back to normal! ugh.

Playa del Carmen

As a last hoorah for the summer, two of my best friends and I decided to spend the week before I had to come back to school in Mexico. Adonde?? Tickets to Cancun were by far the cheapest from NYC and DC which wasn't ideal but we did our homework and decided to have a go at Playa del Carmen, a more manageable version of Cancun with A LOT more personality. Playa is about an hour bus ride from the Cancun airport~ at $7, it's well worth the extra travel time. We arrived at Maria Sabina hostel and made ourselves at home in the 4 bed ensuite that we scored for a mere $15/night each. The other people staying there were great and we couldn't have asked for a better location. Fingers crossed I don't have bed bugs! More on our adventures to come.

Tecolutla

Tecolutla, Veracruz. A laid-back beach town about 4 hours (7 if you're stuck behind pinche trucks on the one-way mountain road) from Pachuca and popular destination of Mexican tourists. Notice the lack of tanners/towels on the actual beach. Yea, my gringa accomplice and I were quite a sight to see.... and so is my lobster face now. Ha. Anyway, the beach is full of umbrellaed tables and chairs and vendors stroll the sand selling a variety of beachy trinkets and treats. Behind this row of tables and wheeled vendors are the  shaded areas, palapas, where you can rent tables and hammocks for a mere $4/day. Here was our delightful spot.

And lucky us, it came with beachside service including coco agua, guanabana helado, and raw oysters. Gringa power! teehee. Homer enjoyed himself as well...

School delayed OTRA VEZ

After rushing back to Mexico from the States to make it to class before the scheduled reopening of May 6th, I come to find out that school cancellation has been extended for yet another 5 days until the following Monday, May 11th. I'll take it, I think. Marlies and I, slightly peeved at our nonessential relocation, decide to head for the beach to make the most of it. The closest beach to Pachuca is a small town on the coast of Verzcruz called Tecolutla. We packed up Homer and Nolita and were on our way. A trip meant to last 3 days was extended to 6 after the reciept of this text message from the Mexican government... Hidalgo continua en alerta epidemiologica. REGRESO A CLASES 18 MAYO. Sigue las medidas de prevencion. Permanece en casa: Gob del Estado. Which basically translates to: Hidalgo continues with the epidemic alert. RETURN TO CLASSES MAY 18TH. Continue with prevention measures. Remain in your houses. Government of the state. Fortunately, Marlies and I were thoroughly enjoying our beach vacay so the additional extension was not completely unwelcome... that is unless we have to extend classes into the summer. hmmmm. Details on la playa muy pronto.

Travel Accessory

Just to reiterate to American friends and family that I took every precaution possible to prevent the spread of the swine flu, here we are, armed with masks that we switched every 2 hours to guarantee freshness. In addition, I hand sanitized on a regular basis, and promise I wasn't digging for gold like I would have been under normal circumstances... 

This guy...

Man oh man. It doesn't take long to notice the ridiculous amount of extra attention one receives as a gringa traveling in Mexico. It usually comes in the form of hoots, hollers, whistles, and the occasional wave. Rarely will someone buy a drink for you or say hello like you might expect in the United States. Until, that is, we meet this guy. Ha! He was such a character. Approaching 60 I'm sure and on what he claimed to be his 30th cerveza of the night, he bought us not one, not two, but three rounds of drinks! Very generous. As repayment, of course, we were expected to chat with him which wasn't too difficult considering he made himself comfortable by pulling up a chair at our table just as we were about to eat dinner. Many repeated questions later and he finally gets our names down. We had his from the first second he sat down but he still told us a few more times. In the end we had an audience as we taught the poor guy English words that he was ecstatically yelling across the patio to his drinking buddies. Lights! Chair! Table! Head! Nose! Quesadilla! Hey, I think I know that one.

Santa Domingo

This beautiful church turned cultural center can be found in the heart of Oaxaca. It was originally established and inhabited by Dominican monks and now serves as the city's cultural center housing pre-Columbian artifacts, artwork, and other traveling features. Find out more here.

All in all, a wonderful way for us to end our cultural extravaganza in Oaxaca.

TEOTITHUACAN

Teotithuacan is about an hour bus ride from Pachuca. These tremendous pyramids were built over the course of about 200 years from around 100 BC to 100 AD. There are two large structures, the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon. Both can be seen below.

Pyramid of the Sun

Pyramid of the Moon

During the height of its establishment, Teotithuacan may have had more than 100,000 inhabitants placing it among the largest cities in the world in this period. It is hypothesized that is was a multi-ethnic civilization focused on the worship of gods like the Feathered Serpent and Rain God, and human & animal sacrifice. The two grand pyramids are separated by what was known as the Avenue of the Dead which can be seen here.

Leaders were buried in the small structures that lined this walkway. It was an incredible sight. It's amazing that people were capable of this so long ago and without modern building tools and machines! It was crazy steep too. I had a hard enough time getting up there just to take a gander... I can't imagine trekking all the way up carrying gigantic stones!

árboles púrpuras y casas azules

On Sunday morning, we got up early to embrace our inner tourist. I had a plan for the day, must've inherited that trait from my dad, to go to Coyoacan, la casa azul, and the market. I have mastered the DF subway system at this point. How could you not for only 2 pesos/ride? We started at the Coyocan Mall where we conquered Zara in about an hour and each had prized finds that could not go left unpurchased. :)

After the shopping itch was relieved, we headed for the museum and market. About a 25 minute walk, we lingered under these lovely purple trees to take a midway break. They are by far my favorite in Mexico. Finally, we arrived at Casa Azul, the house of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera between 1941 and 1954. It was amazing. They were so in love and you could feel it in the walls. Probably helped that the museum posted photos of them together all over the place, but still. That much talent under one roof is pretty incredible. The house itself was a giant square with a large courtyard in the middle. Artwork like this Diego Rivera sculpture could be found in every crevice. 

Semana Santa

Finally! Spring break arrived! After 3 weeks of unfortunate events piling up, I was more than ready for a break. Lucky for me, the Mexicans like their holidays and we are given an entire 2 weeks off to relax, travel, and for me, hang out with Carlota, my South of the border travel buddy and best friend. I met her at the D.F. airport on Saturday 4/4 only to realize shortly thereafter that I should be in a different terminal. Mexico City's airport is one of those weird ones that isn't all connected so by the time I became aware of this, I was late and still had to figure out how to get to the correct terminal. After some pleading with the tram guy who wouldn't let me in sans boarding pass, I was directed to the sketchier route via 1960's RV... Luckily Carlota still hadn't made it through customs by the time I arrived, an hour after I intended. The reunion was glorious of course... we stocked up on water & cookies and headed to our destination del noche, Hotel Milan in La Roma.

Giant David in Roma

Walking around on Sunday led us to the cute D.F. neighborhood of Roma, discussed here in the NYT travel section. It was a gorgeous day. My spirits were lifted by the abundance of trees, European architecture, delicious cafes, and this tremendous remake of Michelangelo's David.

Coco Bongo

Have you ever been so bored at a bar that you didn't know what to do with yourself so you just drank yourself silly? Not that we didn't do that, but another perk of Cancun is that it provides endless amounts of while-drinking entertainment. You thought that the drunk and desperate people were enough, right? Wrong. D-Rock's club of choice, Coco Bongo, provides hours of self-made shows featuring such acts as Beyonce, Prince, Michael Jackson, the Rolling Stones, even a show down between Spiderman and the Green Goblin himself. It was no joke. I was happy as a clam... Here are a few photos to give you a glimpse of the ridiculousness. Thanks D!!